Sewing and indenting machine.



No. 680,l42. Patented Aug. 6, I90l.

' H. W. GOULD.

SEWING AND INDENTING MACHINE.

. I (Application filed Sept. 1, 1900.) (No Model.) 2 Sheei$Sheet I,

WITNESS 5:5

WITNESE. E5 l No. ssn,|42. Patented Aug. 6,1901.

H. w. GOULD. j

SEWING AND INDENTING I ACHII E. (Application filed Sept. 1, 1900.)

(No Model.)

2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

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UNITED STATES PATENT ()F IQE.-

HOWARD W. GOULD, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY.

SEWING AND INDENTING MACHINE.

srnctmcemou formiong part of Letters Patent No. 680,142, dated August 6, 1901.

Application filed September 1,1900. SerialNo. 28,814. (Nomodeld To a, whom it may concern: I My invention consists in the improvement Be it known that I, HOWARD W. GOULD, a in sewing-machines hereinafter described and citizen of the United States,residing at Boston, claimed. in the county of Suffolk and State of Massa- In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is 55 chusetts, have invented certain new and usea front side elevation, and Fig. 2 is a front ful Improvements in Sewing and Work-Inend elevation, of a sewing-machine embodydenting Machines; and I do hereby declare ing the preferred form of my invention. Fig. the following to be afull, clear, and exact de- 3 is a sectional elevation of Fig. 1, showing scription of the invention, such as will enable the thread-measurer and its supporting and 60 others skilled in the art to which it appertains operating means. Fig. 4 is a bottom plan of to make and use the same. I the thread measnrer and its supporting The presentinvention relates to animprovemeans. Fig. 5 is an enlarged side elevation ment in sewing-machines, and more particuof the feed-cam. Fig. 6 is a longitudinal seclarly to that class of sewing-machines which tion through a piece of work in the line of the 6 5 employ stitch-forming mechanism and workseam, showing the needle and the work-in indenting devices for sewing and pricking up denting tool in engagement with the work. the seam at one operation. In most sewing- Fig. 7 is a section on line 1 3 Fig. 6; and Fig. machines of this class it has been found nec- 8 is a side elevation of the needle. essary in practical work to provide some My invention consists in the mechanism 70 means for correcting the position of the workfor forming a seam of stitches, comprising a indenting tool to compensate for accidental work-piercing implement, such as aneedle or variations in the length of the stitches. Furawl or the like, and a work-indenting tool havthermore, in most prior machines of this class ingits Work-engaging end located in the plane the work-indenting tool engaged the work at of the work-piercing implement and trans- 75 z 5 adistance from the work-piercing implement, versely to the line of the seam,'acting to inwith the result that in sewing curved seams dent the work while the work-piercing implethe indentations being normal to the curve ment is in the work, together with means for at the point where the work-piercing implesupporting and operating the parts in timed ment entered it were inclined to the curve relation to each other to form a series of 8o where the indentations were made. It has stitches in the work and to make indentations also been proposed to cause the work-indentin the work transversely to the line of the ing tool to engage the stitch at the needle-hole seam. after the needle had left the work, and meche I My invention is not limited to any particuanism independent of the stitch forming lar kind of sewing-machine, for it may be em- 85 5 mechanism was provided to operate the workbodied in the fair-stitch machine, the eyeindenting tool in proper timed relation to the pointed-needle lock-stitch machine, the hookstitclrforming mechanism. As thus conneedle chain-stitch machine, the hook-needle structed the machines were complicated by lock-stitch machine, 850., without departure the large number of parts and the delicate therefrom. The gist of my invention resides o 40 mechanism required to secure good results. in the combination, with any form of stitch- The object of my invention is to produce a forming mechanism employing a work-piercmachine of this class in which the work-ining implement, of an independently-supportdenting tool engages the work transversely to ed Work-indenting tool operating to indent theline of the seam and while the work-piercthe work in the plane of the work-piercing 5 5 ing implement is in the work, whereby I am implement transversely to the line of the enabled to dispense with the corrective deseam while the work-piercing implement is vices or independent actuating devices for in the work.

the tool and whereby the indentations are al- My invention is not limited to the use of ways normal to the line of the seam, and,'furany particular kind of work-piercing imple I00 thermore, to improve machines of this class ment, but comprehends in its broader aspects in other respects hereinafter pointed out. any form of such implement, whether it be a suitable tool may be used.

I have shown my invention as embodied in a fair-stitch sewing-machine, in which the stitch is formed by successively forcingbights of the thread into successive holes in the material, and I prefer this embodiment of my invention, because in the class of work done by this machine it is desirable to reduce to a minimum the nu mberof operations on a shoe.

The illustrated embodiment of my in vention is described as follows:

The frame A supports the parts of the machine in the manner hereinafter described.

The needle N, the looper L, and the threadmeasurer M constitute the stitch -forming mechanism. The work-support S operates normally to press the work up toward the de vices operating thereon and tohold it there during the performance of their stitch-forming and work-indenting operations and during the feed of the work and to release it during the return movement of the needle and work-indenting tool. The needle-rest R supports and guides the needle in the usual man-- ner. The work-indenting tool T embraces the needle and is provided with two wedge shaped work-engaging edges located in the plane of the needle and transversely to the line of the seam and constitutes principally a work-indenting tool and incidentally a needle guide or support, and it also contributes to the feeding of the work. The presser-foot P (being substantially the same as the presser foot described in the patent to Mower and Coupal, No 641,719, dated January 23, 1900) operates to engage and hold the work against the work-support during the first part of the downward movement of the needle and to re-- lease the work during the last part of such downward movement, so as to allow the work who fed. The operation of these devices is as follows: Assuming the parts to be in the position shown in the drawings, the needle and work-indenting-tool m=ove rearwardly (to the left, as shown in Fig. 2); and feed the work, then the presse-r-foot P descends and holds the work against the work-support S, the needle N and the work-indenting tool T rise and move forward, then the looper L lays the thread in the hook of the needle, and the thread-measurer M moves to the left from the position which it occupies as shown in Fig. 1 to a position approximately under the needle, where it enters the bight of thread between the hook of the needle and the work. It then moves rearwardly (to the left, as seen in Fig. 2) and measures off a bight of thread sufficient for the next stitch to be formed, and at the same time the needle descends and penetrates the work, the measurer having moved out from under it, and carries down into the work a bight of thread to form a stitch, the threadmeasurer M in the meantime withdrawing state from the bight to permit the needle to carry thread down into the work, as shown in Fig. 6. Before the needle has completed its down ward movement the work-indentingtool T engages the work and forms two inden'tations therein upon opposite sides of the seam of stitches and in the plane of the needle, being substantially at right angles to the line of the seam. Just before the completion of the downward movement of the needle the presser-foot P is raised and the work is thereby released, so that the rearward movement of the needle and work-indenting tool will feed the work a distance equal to the length of a stitch. It will be observed that the workindenting tool is accurately located with relation to the needle-hole and that whatever may be the variations in the length of the the stitches, due to whatever cause, whether accidental or intentional, the indentations will always be located exactly opposite the needle-holes. It will be seen that the workindenting tool cooperates with the needle to feed the work and that it also forms a guide which supports the needle. It will also be observed that the line of the indentation made a by the tool is always normal to the line of the seam, whether that line be straight or curved.

I will now describe the mechanisms for operating the needle, looper, thread-measurer, presser-foot, work inden'tin g tool, and for actuating the needle and work-indenting tool to feed the work.

The needle N is carried in the needle-bar n, being secured therein in the usual manner,

which bar is mounted in bearings in the head A, pivoted at a to the front end of the frame A of the machine. The needle-restRis also carried by the needle-bar in the usual manner. Adjustably. secured to the needle-bar is a block at, to which is pivoted one end of the pitman M, the other end of which embraces a crank-pin in the end of the main shaft B, supported in suitable hearings in the frame A of the machine. Rotations of the shaft thus reciprocate the needle-bar.

The work-indenting tool T is mounted in the tool-bar t, which is supported in bearings in the head A parallel to the needle-bar n. The tool T is provided with ashank t, which is received in a hole in the tool-bar t, being secured in adjustable position therein by the set-screw 15 A collar 25 is secured to the tool-bar 15 below the lower bearing in the head A, and it serves to limit the upward motion of the tool-bar by its engagement with the under surface of the head. Upon the tool-bar is adjustably secured the block i". Between the lower bearing of the toolbar If in the head A and the block 6 is interposed a spring 16 which encircles the toolbar and normally operates to lift the tool-bar. The upper surface of the block 15 is adapted to be engaged by the block 'n as that block approaches the limit of its downward throw, so that during the latter part of the downward movement of the needle the block n is at the other end against the lever in.

in engagement with the block if, and the tool '1 is thereby forced downward with the needle to make its work-indenting stroke.

The looper L is secured to the lower end of the looper-lever Z by the set-screw Z. The looper-lever Z is pivoted at Z in a fixed part of the frame A of the machine, and it bears upon its upper end a cam-roll Z which engages the cam-path Z of the cam Z mounted on the front end of the shaft B. The campath is such as to impart to the looper the movements across the path of movement of the needle to lay a bight of thread in the barb of the needle as'it returns from its feeding stroke.

The thread-measurer M is mounted on a lever m, being secured thereto by means of the bolt m. The lever m is pivoted upon a slide m mounted in a slideway m fixed to the'bracket m on the frame A of the machine. The thread-measurer is moved to the right andleft, as seen in Fig. 1,by means of the lever m pivoted at m upon the bracket m The lever m is slotted at m to receive a pin m projected from the side of the slide m At the other end of the lever m there is supported a cam-roll m, which engages a cam-path m in a cam m, mounted on the shaft B. The cam-path is such that it will move the thread-measurer to the left, as seen in Fig. 1, to engage the bight of thread after the thread has been laid in the hook of the needle by the looper. The lever m is moved to impart to the thread-measurer M its for-. ward movement by means of a spring M which is supported at one end upon a projection m from the guideway m and bears The lever is moved rearwardly to measure off thread by means of the lever on, pivoted at 'm upon the bracket m. The lower end of the lever on engages a projection m, adjustably secured to the lever on by the capbolt m". The other end of the lever m carries a cam-rollm ,which engages a cam-path m in the cam m, above referred to. The cam-path m is such that after the threadmeasurer M has been moved to the left, as seen in Fig. 1, to enter the bight of thread it will move the thread-measurer rearwardly to measure off thebight of thread required to form the next stitch. It will be noted that adjustment of the projection m regulates the amount of thread measured off by the thread-measurer.

The presser-foot P has a work-engaging end 19, which is located in front of the needle. The presser-foot P is of gooseneck shape and secured in the usual manner at p to the presser-bar p", which is mounted in suitable hearings in a stationary part of the head of the machine. A spring 10 engaging at one end a collar 19, adjustably secured to the presser-bar p by the set-screw p and at the other end engaging the upper bearingp, normally tends to force the presser-bar downward, and thereby. to hold the presser-foot in engagement with the work. A threaded collar p and nut 19 are mounted upon the upper threaded end of the presser-bar, so that they may be adjusted up and down thereon and secured in any desired position. A lever 1), pivoted at 19 to the head A, bears at one end against the under side of the collar 13 and at the other side projects under a collar 10 adjustably secured to the needle-bat n by the set-screw p 7 The adjustment of these parts is such that when the needle begins its downward movement the presser-foot, bearing down against the work-support, securely holds the work thereon, and that after the needle has descended through a part of its stroke then the collar 19 will engage the leverp and cause it to raise the presser-foot, so that the ensuing feed movement of the needle and work-indenting tool may carry.

the work freely rearward. Then upon the beginning of the upward stroke of the needle the presser-foot again drops on the work. While the needle and work-indenting tool are making their return stroke the work-support S is released and pressed upward against the presser-foot, so as to compensate for variations in thickness of the work.

The head A, which constitutes the support for the needle-bar n and tool-bar 25, is actuated to impart to those instrumentalities their work-feedin g movement by means of the cam a, mounted upon the main shaft 13 of the machine. A lever a, pivoted at a upon a fixed part of the frame A of the machine, is provided at its opposite end with a cam-roll a which engages the cam-path a on the cam a. The rotation of the cam a imparts lateral oscillations to thelever Ct. The lever a is provided with an arc-shaped slot at, which is engaged by a block a mounted upon an arm a, pivoted at a in the head A. The position of the block a in the slot a determines the am plitude'of oscillation which shall be imparted to the head A by the cam a. When the block is raised, it moves to a part of the slot which partakes of a wider amplitude of movement, and so the move ments imparted to the head A when the block is in this part of the slot are greater than when the block is in the position shown in the drawings. The position of the block a in the slot at is adjusted by providing the shaft a to which the lever a is secured, with a worm-wheel a, which is engaged by a worm c0 mounted upon a shaft a carried in suitable bearings in the bracket a, secured to the head A, and provided on its outer end with a thumb-head a, so that by turning the shaft a the length of the feed may be varied. The shape of the cam-path a is such as to cause the head A to stand still during the formation of the stitch and the indenting of the work and to move forward to feed the work after the completion of the stitch-forming and work-indenting operations and then backward to return those parts to their original position after they have retreated from the work.

I am aware of the patent to Hadaway, No. ($16,314; but my invention is clearly distinguished therefrom in many respects, of which it is snfiicient here to advert only to the following: First, the work-indenting tool in the said patent engages the work after the needle has withdrawn therefrom, so that if the work was pressed through the machine the tool would engage the work beyond the needle and defective work would result therefrom,

a and, second, the timed relation of the parts in the machine of said patent is such that independent mechanism is required to operate the Work-indenting tool, whereas in carrying out my invention, since the work-indentin g tool engages the work simultaneously with the work-piercin g implement,the indentations are and must be properly positioned with relation thereto, in addition to which I am enabled in the preferred embodiment of my invention to operate the work-indenting tool from the stitch-forming mechanism.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States- 1. A sewing-machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, comprising a work-piercing implement, an independently-supported work-indenting tool having its Work-engaging end located in the plane of the work-piercing implement and transversely to the line of the seam, acting to indent the Work while the work-piercin g im plement is in the work, and means for actuat ing the parts, substantially as described.

- 2. A sewing-machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a work-feeding tool, an independently-supported work-indenting tool having its Workengaging end located in the plane of the feeding-tool and transversely to the line of the seam, acting to indent the work while the work-feeding tool is in the work, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as de- Y scribed.

the work-piercing implement and transversely to the line of the seam, acting to indent the work while the work-piercing implement is in the'work, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.

5. A sewing-machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a work -feeding implement, an independently-supported work-indentin g tool movable with the work-feeding implement having its work-engaging end located in the plane of the feeding implement and transversely to the line of the seam, acting to indent the Work while the work-feeding implement is in the work, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.

6. A sewing-machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needle acting to feed the work, an independently-snpported work-indenting tool movable with the needle having its work-engaging end located in the plane of the needle and transversely to the line of the seam, acting to indent the work while the needle is in the work, and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.

7. A sewing-machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needle, an independently-supported workindenting tool embracing the needle and act ing to indent the work transversely to the line of the seam, and means for actuating the parts in timed relation to each other so that the indenting-tool engages the work after the needle has entered the work and before the needle has completed its downward movement, substantially as described.

8. A sewing-machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, comprising a needle, an independently-supported workindenting tool embracing the needle acting,

to indent the Work transversely to the line of the seam, a thread finger acting to engage and measure oft thread for the next stitch and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described.

9. A sewing-machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needle, an independently-supported workindenting tool embracing the needle acting to indent the work transversely to the line of the seam, a thread-finger acting to engage the thread and to move rearwardly to measure off thread for the next stitch and means for actuating the parts, substantially as described. l

10. A sewing-machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needle, an independently-supported workindenting tool embracing the needle acting to indent the work transversely to the line of the seam, a thread-finger acting to engage and measure oft thread for the next stitch, and means for actuating the parts in timed relation to each other so that the indentingtool engages the work after the needle has entered the work and before the needle has completed its downward movement, substantially as described.

11. A sewing-machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needle, an independently-supported workindenting tool embracing the needle acting to indent the work transversely to the line of the seam, a thread-finger acting to engage the thread and to move rearwardly to measure 01f thread for the next stitch, and means for actuating the parts in timed relation to each other so that the indenting-tool engages the work after the needle has entered the Work and before the needle has completed its downward movement, substantially as described.

12. A sewingmachine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, comprising a needle, a needle-bar, a work-indenting tool, a tool-bar, a spring normally acting to lift the tool-bar, connections between the needlebar and tool-bar acting to depress the toolbar with the downward stroke of the needlebar, and means for actuating the parts, sub

stantially asdescribed. 13. A sewing-machine, having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, comprising 'a needle, a needle-bar, a work-indenting tool,

HOWARD W. GOULD.

I Witnesses:

HORACE VAN EVEREN,

ALFRED H. HILDRETH. I 

